15:Makoto Hayashi, the executive officer, the executive chef and the culinary manager of TODAYA

“I was working so hard to repay debts of gratitude to my master chef.
The relationship between a master and a pupil in Japanese Culinary field is such a strong thing.”


Makoto Hayashi was born in Nagano Prefecture, near famous Zenkou-ji Temple.He came to his relative’s place in Toba wishing to work in the culinary field.From the mountain side to the sea side. When he heard of the sound of waves, he got the first impression he reached to the nice place. Firstly, he had got a job in the Ryokan in Ohama area. After he had been trained in the next place, he came to work for TODAYA at his age of 30.Now he oversees many chefs in the long-established hotel for nearly 200 years long.

I never forget how I was impressed when I came here to get a job. I was living in the dormitory, I always heard the ripple when I went to bed. It was so beautiful. After I spent 3months, I got homesick. I really did want to go back to my home town, but I didn’t after all. It was good Nagano is too far to go back easily.4 people including me entered the Ryokan in the same time. In Toba, many of them entered this field just after they graduated junior high school. They tended to quit very soon, but in that age, we had immediately new comers instead. I would rather not to complain. Still, sometimes I feel depressed. However, when my senior chefs got it, they cheered me up all the time. It was very reassuring. With my colleagues, we encouraged each other to keep working on it. After I learned all through what to do in my work place, I was able to get the sense of achievement. Then I didn’t think about quitting my job because I found more pleasure in my job.

I learned a lot from preparing for the meals for the chefs. I needed to make good meal with the limited ingredients and tried to make even simple Miso soup with
Wakame seaweed with a full of attention in tense, because all the chefs checked my skill by eating the meals I prepared.

In 1990, I started my career in TODAYA. We had a lot of lunch guests, because TODAYA is just in front of Toba Station. In this area,in 1993, Shikinen Sengu, the big ceremony in Ise Jingu was held. Next to Shikinen-Sengu, the world festival expo was held as well. At that time, we had 700 guests for lunch and another 700 guests for dinner, the kitchen was in great confusion. That was tough time, but I was working so hard to repay debts of gratitude to my master chef. My master chef accepted my request such as I wanted to see the bigger world in the bigger hotel, and he introduced me to TODAYAThe relationship between a master and a pupil in Japanese Culinary field is such a strong thing.” Even if I was hit by the senior chefs, I made a point of thinking that I was grateful to be taught how to do the job. For some reason, I didn’t get angry.I think that the juniors sometimes have to get frustrated and get some pain, and they will get some feedback. But it is also important to support them to recover when they are in pain. As the management, I try to explain why they are scolded and make the reasons clear. Dealing with the various style of guest meals, eating-in-guestroom, banquet dinner, eating in the hotel restaurants and eating in buffet, we are holding 32 chefs of Japanese cuisine and western style cuisine. We also have the temporally chefs and some chefs experienced and retired come to work to help us. We are short handed in my kitchien. We have new live kitchen and serve the meal in front of the guests. This is new thing. The chefs were always working behind the scenes, but this is also changing with the times

The cooking skills are depending on the sense of the cuisine of a chef. Even you can pretreat the food beforehand you cook the product in the same level as the senior chefs, but you need to gain the experience in the real field to master how to use the secret ingredients effectively on the dish. To add the depth of the taste and rich flavor in the dish or to create nice presentation with the glossy surface is also important. These skills depend on the delicate arrangement with the certain techniques. You can give the arrangement to your dish because you have the basic cooking skills as the foundation of your technique. If you were paying too much attention only to the arrangement, it couldn’t be the genuine one.I saw the completely different ingredients and products at first time when I came to Toba from my hometown, Nagano. We have good oysters, Sawara, Spanish mackerel and very good seaweeds like AKAMOKU. So many good marine products in Toba. These local products have tasty and flavorful. I would like to stick to the local products and serve them to our guests.

Category: Itamae

14: The proprietress of Todaya、Mari Terada

To work is how to cope with in the society.
The ability of communication is the important thing in the hotel.


In the history of 188 years, the long-established hotel, TODAYA has always been responding to various changes on the eras. All through the long history, there certainly is the sense of hospitality, the manners based on it, and the behavior with the etiquette in the hotel.

It has been 20 years since I got married and moved to Toba. And 18years since I had started working in the hotel. I usually greet all the guests in the dinner party at night, in the next morning, go to see them off at the hotel entrance, and in the short time, welcome our group tour guest for lunch. During those busy days, I also experienced the OKIHIKI-GYOUJI, the ceremony of pulling timbers into Ise Jingu and the SHIKINEN-SENGU, the ceremony of transferring the deity to the new shrine and got plenty of guests in our hotel as well. Looking back those days, I was always wondering how I managed to get thorough the tough days. I realized once again that I was taking over a huge hotel business and deeply knew how hard to run it. At just same time, my husband was transferred to the Tokyo sales office, and I handled the household affairs by myself.I had to pick up my daughter at the station on the way back to home, but sometimes I forgot it and she was stood up for some while in the dark at night.

As a daily routine, I have brief meeting with each section manager to share the information, and my biggest role is to manage the working shifts of the room clerks. Recently, we have got many foreign employees. The internships, the temporally staffs and Chinese trainees. They are supposed to work for only 11 months, but I teach them as a member of TODAYA. I cherish the chance to have them in my hotel.

They don’t know Japanese culture very much. Therefore, they sometimes step over the obstacle at her feet or move the things aside by her foot. Those behaviors are regarded as ill- mannered ones. I would like them to learn the basic manners and beautiful behaviors based on Japanese culture. I try to explain them why these behaviors are not right and make them understand the reason and learn the manners step by step. One casual daily rule has something to do with the satisfaction of the guests.For example, how to dish up the rice into the rice bowl. I teach them how to do it with a gesture, and tell them, “Don’t dish them up at one time.” “Don’t mash the rice and scoop them gently.” To know the map of Japan is one of the important things. To the guests from far from our area, we should give them the suitable greetings. If you can greet to the guest with a word, “Thank you very much for coming all the way to stay with us.”, it will lead the conversations flowing.To work is how to cope with in the society.The ability of communication is the important thing in the hotel. This is not only for the foreign emplyees.

The smile is absolute. And of course, the appreciation to the guests for coming to our hotel all the way. But I believe that this appreciation will reach the guests only when the beautiful behavior stays with it. The manners are important. The sense also matters. I always keep in mind to value the details of our small behaviors, for example, putting a square tray along the edge line of Tatami mat. The neatness improves the comfort. I am very happy when my guests give the compliments to my employees. I am so relieved to know they are working very hard to provide good service to our guests.And I tell them that the guests are moved by their hard work.


Category: Okami